Posted by: jimndianne | December 3, 2009

Mexico to Ecuador via Miami…

03 December 09 Mexico

Had to get up very early in the morning (3a.m.) in order to check in 3 hours before our 7a.m. flight on American Airlines to Miami. We had to stay with the One World group of airlines in order to build up our air 001points and this will explain the need for flying from Miami to Quito, in Ecuador.  Flying in to Miami gave us a great view of the Florida coastline and the Everglades as it was a brilliant clear day!

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We had a four hour wait in Miami Airport in order to connect with our flight to Quito and this time was spent catching up writing a blog or two, having a bite to eat (as we’d missed out on breakfast) and buying a couple of books to read. The airport there was less than impressive, being rather dirty in the area where our Gate was and the staff not very professional at all.  Our flight was late leaving and was jam packed! At least they did produce a meal for us which was quite acceptable, although the flight attendant managed to knock a small bottle of wine off her cart, into my salad and then onto my lap! As a result of this, she politely told me I could have it for no charge!

Arrival time in Quito, Ecuador, was around 7.45pm, where we had a minor worry when only one of our suitcases had come through, however the second one ultimately arrived to our intense relief! The airport in Quito is at a height of 9,000ft and it was pouring with rain on arrival. By the time we’d gone through Immigration and Customs and found a young man holding a sign with our names on, the rain had all but stopped. After a long two hour drive in the dark, down one mountainside and up another one, we finally arrived outside our hotel in Cotacachi, at 8,000ft, our destination. It felt rather strange not seeing the landscape along the way but no doubt we’ll come to know it in the morning. By now quite tired after such an early start to our day, we tumbled into bed and immediately fell asleep!

Posted by: jimndianne | December 2, 2009

Mexico City

02 December 2009, Mexico

We spent the day in Mexico City and boarded the ‘hop on, hop off’ double decker bus and had a most enjoyable time. The photos below will give you an idea of what we saw. We haven’t put titles to the photos as we took so many that we can’t remember which was what!!! However no doubt we will sort them out in years to come!

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The centre photo above is a huge Christmas decoration as yet unfinished!

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We became very hungry after all this hard work so took some time out for some empanadas and a couple of beers. They went down a treat!

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The next few photos are of some elegant homes that we saw in the inner city.

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There is heaps of construction throughout the entire city. We even found a fairground.

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Love this Shot of the two ‘garbos’ taking it easy after a hard days work

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We had a really good day and it certainly changed our opinion of Mexico City, finding it far more sophisticated and modern than we had imagined from our first impressions. With a v-e-r-y early start tomorrow to the next exotic country, we took a taxi back to the Ramada and had an early night. Yawn…

Posted by: jimndianne | December 1, 2009

The changing faces of Mexico.

01 December 2009, Mexico

We said a sad goodbye to our friends, the staff at Hotel Las Villa Margaritas. They had shown us such warmth and friendship and seemed genuinely sorry to see us go. Our guide from the previous day, Armando, was kind enough to offer to take us to the bus terminal, another very nice person we had had the privilege to know here in Xalapa.

We were booked to travel to Mexico City on an ADO078 bus, with GL level of comfort, (one level down from the most expensive bus) and with barely a half full complement we departed from Xalapa, the journey scheduled to take 5 hours. The bus pictured here on the right was of a different line but similar as we forgot to take a photo of ours! Our 054fellow passengers soon put their seat backs into a  position which almost created a bed and most of them fell asleep straight away. For us, the grey curtains at the windows were a nuisance   as we wi041shed to see as much of the countryside as we could on this trip so we pulled back as many as we could. From the 042 outset, there was changing scenery even as we journeyed on our way through the mountainous area away from Xalapa. There were043 many shanty towns and small villages, as well as unfinished bare concrete homes.044

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Note the boots outside the door!051

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Once out of the mountains, the landscape gave way to flat plains. The main crop here is corn, and it is everywhere! However, due to the cold weather at this time of year the corn has now dried out and is either still standing dry and forlorn in the fields or has just been gathered up and put into small pyramid-shaped stacks. None of it is wasted though and would probably be fed to the livestock or ground up into corn meal, possibly for making tortillas. (This is just our guess…)

There are massive cacti to be seen, too, 067 and other smaller varieties. A solitary airfield caught our eye, in the midst of fields of vegetables; also a ruined fort. Here, a small town nestles into the hills.

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A type of cabbage tree was prolific in this area.

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About two hours out of Mexico City this attractive church was visible between other buildings.

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Spotted when we stopped at some road works – this young boy herding his sheep and goats, along with his three faithful dogs, up a dry river bed.

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Also along the way were many beautiful shrines of remembrance in the form of floral tributes to a departed soul, perhaps a victim of a road accident.

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We were now approaching the outskirts of Mexico City and were quite astounded to see the actual side of this city – it is just VAST! Very many homes are also built on the numerous hills surrounding the city. It is urban sprawl at its worst, with huge numbers of 077people living in quite desperate circumstances. 075

And we are almost in Mexico City after a very easy and pleasant 4 1/2  hour bus ride.

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Journey ended with a short taxi ride to our final Mexican hotel, the Ramada.

Posted by: jimndianne | November 30, 2009

Houses in and Around Xalapa

30 November 2009 Mexico

Today we are off to look at some houses. We were lucky enough to make contact with a super lady, Christianne Maldonado from Coldwell Banker, one of the local real estate companies here. We thought long and hard about houses in Xalapa but after looking at the chronic transport problem they have and the fact that the pollution is rather high, we decided that we would prefer to be more out in the country. The houses were also rather hemmed in in Xalapa or if not, then they were rather expensive. This meant 001travelling back to where we saw the waterfall the day before at Xico but it did give us  the chance to view Mexico’s highest mountain, Pico de Orizaba, at 5,636 meters (18,490 feet)! The photo is a bit distant but so was the mountain!

The first house we saw looked like a very cute cottage and took quite some time to find. Eventually, after asking a group of policemen who all gave different answers, we located the owner who took us directly to his house. He spoke perfect English and had been with Malaysian Airways for a number of 017years. He and his wife had built this house over the last six mont013hs but due to health reasons have to return to sea level.  Pico is about 2000 feet above sea level. The   house wasn’t

finished and the layout really was not very practical at all. The total land at 1100 m2 could have been useful and the view amazing but I felt we would almost have to knock the house down and start again. This is a view of the one and only bedroom 008which was on a very small mezzanine (accessed by a vertical wooden ladder) and it looked down 010into the lounge. The bathroom was only an image of what it should comprise and the kitchen not a lot better. He had added on a store room which had a permanent roof but only plywood walls! Asking price was around $57,000 and we did not make an offer. Interesting project but had gone off the rails somewhere along the line.

Christianne took us to a number of other houses just to 045show us what was available but due to the short notice we gave her, we were unable to see inside. These were far more to our liking sitting on about 1000 m2 of land with access completely around the house.

We then drove back to Coatepec which is about 20 mins from Xalapa but still in a rural atmosphere. Christianne wanted to show us her house which she had spent the last six months building and thought it might give us an idea, again, as to what was available in this area.  She had three dogs as an added attraction so we readily agreed to come and have a look. Well this was a real education and we have to say the house fell into the category that we all have of houses we’d like to own some day!

Built of concrete blocks principally with a stone foundation, concrete floor partly 033 036suspended and yes, a concrete roof. Bamboo  features in a number of places as supports, ceilings, mezzanines and features within the walls. The finish to the inside walls, which seemed to flow throughout the house, is unusual but  019very effective. 020 Christianne has applied a slurry of different coloured earth over the blockwork walls to not only give that soft look but also some natural colours. Over the slurry has been applied a clear finish to stabilize the slurry and provide a very hard wearing surface. The kitchen bench has been done in the same way. There’s not an internal door in the place, the curved walls giving all the privacy needed! The house was a real credit to her.

That completed our day of house inspections and we returned to the hotel in time for an evening meal, a couple of Margaritas and some rest. 040

Posted by: jimndianne | November 29, 2009

Coffee beans, a waterfall and more!

29 November 2009 Mexico

Hey, hey, hey, it’s another day! At 9.15am we were collected from our hotel by our guide, Armando Lobato, who runs a private tourism and adventure business. This 052 young man has put together a number of tours, including Rafting, visits to Colonial Haciendas, various Archaeological Sites, a Coffee Bean Plantation and others. While some of you out there may speak Spanish, his English is excellent and you’re in good hands. A nice German woman joined us for his tour of the Coffee Bean Plantation & Museum, the Cascades Texolo Waterfall and the towns of Coatepec and Xico.

Within around half an hour we were out of Xalapa and in the countryside, which was very green and lush, as we were quite high up. The coffee bean plantation was a 044 small, family operation and the owner and his wife personally took us out to see their trees loaded with green and red beans. The beans can only be picked when they are a very dark red and the trees were much smaller than we had imagined. They also need to be grown under a canopy of much larger trees, which promotes a humid environment in order to produce the best beans, those of the strong, dark, Arabica type. In other areas, the Robusta bean is grown and does not need to grow under the cover of trees. We sampled some of the 050 coffee these people produce and it was delicious! The entire process of picking, washing and drying the beans was also shown to us. They have a Museum, also, where you can follow the history of coffee making and the machines used for that process. There was a chart on the wall showing the consumption of coffee per capita, worldwide, and it was interesting to note that Finland was at the top of the list, followed by the other Scandinavian countries. For full details, check out the photograph.

054A long, cobbled, downhill road took us a little time to negotiate by car in order to  reach the Cascades Texolo waterfall area but this was well worth the effort. The falls themselves are quite stunning, being around 80 metres high and in two separate drops. Our guide, Armando, told us that the falls were featured in the making of the film, “Romancing the Stone”, with Kathleen Turner and Michael Douglas, made back in 1984. While we were there we noticed a group of people way down below us on the rocks near the pool itself and they were making a film also. These are very beautiful  falls and again, well worth the time visiting.

Leaving the falls, we passed by many banana plantations 068as well as a lot of coffee bean growing areas. Our next stop was in the town of Xico, where we were able to visit the Santa Maria Magdalena Cathedral, a very  beautiful building.  As it was Sunday, there were a large number of worshippers in the cathedral, many carrying a wreath of candles which the priest may have blessed. Upon leaving the cathedral, and by now feeling hungry, we bought food from the village ladies, who had set up a large tented cafe directly outside. We tried some empanadas stuffed with cheese, others with shredded beef and onion or with chicken. All were delicious. These were followed up with Churros, a kind of donut 060mixture, extruded through a 1.5mm  nozzle to produce a rod of dough about 12cm long which is then deep fried and finally dipped in sugar. They are really delicious and supposed to be even better when dipped in ice cream!

A visit to Coatepec, a town very close to Xalapa, was our final stop on the tour and where we had a brief walk through the town square, with its brightly coloured balloons and local jewellery for sale. A cup of the best local coffee was an obvious reason for being there, while our new German friend, Margot, had apple tea.

Once back in Xalapa, Armando kindly assisted us with the bookings for our bus journey to Mexico City before depositing us at our hotel and Margot to her friend’s home, where she was staying. It had been quite a full and informative day.

Posted by: jimndianne | November 28, 2009

Saturday in Xalapa!

28 November 2009 Mexico020

Our day began well with a great little tour on a tourist ‘tram’. For the modest price of $3 each, (includ003ing a drink and a biscuit) we were taken all around the town of Xalapa for a whole hour on this quite slow-moving vehicle. We discovered that there is a lot more to Xalapa than first meets the eye. The town itself is set  amongst a number of very hilly streets and is quite a pretty place, with many older  colonial buildings, its wonderful Cathedral which dates back to 1642 right in the town centre and the numerous squares and parks that are around every corner.008

There are several universities here and one of the largest seemed to have a huge emphasis on sport, with a number  of students out in the stadium practising the pole vault and high jump as well as on the track. Close by, in a large Olympic sized swimming pool, were students doing their laps of the po015ol. We also  spotted a game of Hand Ball in progress on a court as we passed, with supporters shouting on the sidelines. A very pict011uresque lake with many ducks was a favourite spot for picnickers, who watched in some amusement as the tram passed by!

After the tour finished, we walked to the nearby square in the town centre, heading for a cafe called “Au Petit Cafe”, (Yes, Jen, we have found a little bit of France!) which seemed to be inviting us to have a coffee under big 026sun umbrellas on their rooftop.  The day had by then become very warm so our sweaters were soon being pulled off! After finishing our great $1 coffees, the sound of a band playing some very lively Mexican music called us up into the square once more and we were delighted to find a group of traditional Mexican dancers in black tops with full white skirts, performing on a large stage outdoors. All older women,  they certainly knew how to dance, including wiggling while waving fans and with a candle balanced upon their  heads! Following their act was a group of high school children, most playing guitars and singing with gusto!

A bit of sh037opping  was next on the list with Jim purchasing a very nice beige sweater made in Italy for a whole $24 and for me a pair of silver and white sandals, made in Mexico, for $8! Mexico is so inexpensive for just about everything, clothing, food, even travel, as we’v033e discovered. We have just purchased tickets to return to Mexico City on the ADO autobus system. There are three levels of pricing so we’ve opted for the middle level and for the incredible price of $25 each we will be on a very well appointed bus indeed for the almost five hour trip, even better than the one we used from Veracruz to Xalapa! If we had decided to fly, it would have cost us $270 each and probably taken almost as long by the time we’d got to the airport, waited around, (weather can be a factor with the small planes too) and then flown to Mex. City.

The Museum of Anthropology, we had been told, was not to be missed, so a short taxi ride took us right to its front gates. A fine looking building in attractive grounds, it was most impressive! They offered an audio system in English so with headphones clamped to our 028heads we spent a good three hours there digesting all of the information we were given about the most important collection of pre-Columbian works produced  over three major cultures, those of the Olmec, Totonacs and  Remojadas. There are 18 galleries to visit, containing 2,500 pieces. Their skill was not limited to stonework as there were also examples of very fine pottery, including this incense burner and of children on swings, with whistles at the back!  Our photographs will give you some idea of the immense importance of these pieces of art.

We found it all totally amazing and were so glad we made the choice to visit this museum.

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Posted by: jimndianne | November 27, 2009

Glorious, Colourful Mexico!!

26 – 27 November 2009 Mexico

Just click on the photo and it will tell you about it and give you a bigger view.

To get back to the next shot, just click the left hand arrow at the top of the page.

City Transport

Embroidered Hand Towel Seller

Shoe Shine Man

Sunday Night in the Square

Hot Chillies!

Breakfast Fruit Plate

Savoury Egg Breakfast with Bananas, Ham and Tortillas

Blueberry Hot Cake Stack!!

Cafe Dancers

Street Sellers

Family Night Out in the Square

City Living - Xalapa

Street Musos

Lots of Steps!

And our Hotel Staff – we helped them with English and they with Spanish in return! Every staff member was warm and friendly and couldn’t do enough for us.

Yair - Receptionist & Waiter

Graciela & Emma - Receptionists

Jose-Luis - the barman

Virginia, the Tortilla Maker

Posted by: jimndianne | November 25, 2009

By bus to Xalapa.

25 November 2009 Mexico

Luggage in hand, we took the ADO bus from the bus terminal in Veracruz to the coffee bean growing region of Xalapa, up in the mountains, 1-1/2hrs away from the coast. This was a very smart, up-market bus but with only 5 passengers for the entire journey. Again, the seats laid back almost all the way and there were numerous t.v. screens here and there, including one right in front of our seats. It was fascinating to watch “The Boy in the Striped Pyjamas” once again, having seen it on the Gold Coast in Australia, but this time it was all in Spanish, a good way to brush up on the language, we felt.  We passed some interesting housing on the way to Xalapa. The black blobs on the roofs are water tanks. As we drove further inland, the landscape gradually 017 changed from the 012scrubby green bush of the coast to more open farmland.

Our bus wound its way into the mountains on a very good toll motorway, passing over deep ravines and valleys before finally arriving at its destination, Xalapa. This is a well known educational town with several universities and many cultural sites to visit.

It was nearly 3pm by the time we collected our luggage from the bus and bought our taxi ‘ticket’ from the bus terminal. Even in the centre of town the roads, we discovered, are all up and down, with little on the flat.

Our Hotel Villa las Margaritas, is another which we will always remember as it is quite stunning, being very traditionally Mexican, with044 a gorgeous fountain in the centre of DSC04535

the dining room. It is the first thing you see when entering the reception area and is surrounded by festive season red Poinsettias iDSC04532n pots and Joseph’s Coats with their 046

green, yellow and red foliage. Our bedroom is just to one side of the dining area so we can look out onto the fountain whenever we like. With unusual fabric decorations over the heads of the two Queen size beds027 and tasteful embroidered bedspreads, a table and two chairs, several cupboards for hanging items and a desk as well as a large magnifying mirror on the wall by the bathroom, we have everything we need and more. The bathroom has a bath with draped shower curtain in a fine fabric, as well as the usual amenities.

Dinner was delicious, two regional Chicken dishes, each produced in different ways and both were exquisite.  Despite saying we would catch up on the blogs, once we were finished with dinner we proceeded to chat with one daughter and then another good friend on Skype. Tomorrow is another day so blogs will just have to wait!

Posted by: jimndianne | November 24, 2009

Off to Veracruz!

24 November 2009 Mexico

Upon leaving the Hotel Caribe, we spoke to Antonio via Miguel, who quite accepted the fact that we would not be putting a deposit down on any of his homes just yet. We have his business card and can also make contact through Miguel at a later date.  At the airport, while waiting for our 2.10pm flight to Veracruz via Villeformosa, we sampled some delicious nut muffins along with a beer. The plane, a Brazilian made Ebrauer, had just three seats across, one plus two, which was a first for us, but was quite comfortable. Viewed from the sky the Mexican landscape had changed from the dense scrubby bush and trees in the Yucatan area to that of many large lakes and rivers, winding endlessly across the countryside and with few signs of habitation. Once we approached Villeformosa, however, the scene changed to one of huge settled areas and the vast complexes of low cost living we’ve become accustomed to seeing.

Within a few minutes of landing, most of those who were leaving the flight had disembarked and a new crop of passengers entered for the leg to Veracruz. Our hotel 009 in Veracruz came as a pleasant surprise. It was a very inexpensive price when booked via the internet ($35) so we expected something a bit run-down but this was not the case. Set right on the sea front, it was a superb quality 4 star hotel with great views down the esplanade to the centre of

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Veracruz, some kilometers away. A walk was in order after all this sitting on planes and in taxis so we sauntered along the beach, where there many tented cafes set up right on the water’s edge, reminding us  of a similar scene in Bali at Jimbaran Bay! Strolling guitarists entertained the dining guests, though they were few, as a firm breeze was blowing in. Several Policemen  on top class Harley Davidson motor cycles also patrolled the beach, along with a Patrol Car! There were loads of fishing boats returning with their catches but by the time we reached that end of the beach they had already removed them.

Even with the use of our Latin American Spanish phrase book we were unable to decipher many dishes on the menu in our hotel, so took pot luck and ended up with two different tortilla dishes, one with a ‘strange’ brown gravy-like substance over it (Jim’s) and the other with a type of cream sauce which I actually quite enjoyed! You never know until you try something!

Posted by: jimndianne | November 23, 2009

Merida homes for sale and port of Progreso.

23 November 2009 Mexico

In the morning Miguel and his boss, Antonio, (who spoke no English), took us by taxi to look at a few homes which he had for sale. The first, a 3 bedroom one, we could not look at as it was under rental and some babies were sleeping! The next, just up the road from the first, was a pretty little two bedroom home with wrought iron fence and gates, as is the norm everywhere with a small front grassed area. It had a decent sized lounge directly inside the front door, a small but adequate kitchen with two stoves, two good sized bedrooms with built-in wardrobes (each room had just a hammock strung up for a bed) and two nicely tiled bathrooms. There was a huge sour orange tree in the small paved back yard area and a storage room there as well. All in all, it was a nice little home which he told us was the equivalent of $Aus.60,000 and being in a good area with smart homes.

Just around another corner from this house we were introduced to Antonio’s son and his wife, who were happy to show us their 5 bedroom home, which they were also happy to sell if we liked it! Although having 5 bedrooms and 5 bathrooms it was fairly dark inside with good quality dark furniture and didn’t really appeal, but at about $A73,000 it was a very good deal. Too big for us in any case. Another three bedroom house also nearby looked a likely proposition but Antonio couldn’t locate his other son for the key! At this point, we dropped Antonio back at his restaurant and continued by taxi to a gated estate over half an hour out of Merida. The house we were shown here was brand new, with a double carport, 3 very

big bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, great kitchen, huge lounge and had its own swimming pool at the rear. The exterior of the house was a plaster finish but in the shape of weather boards and they looked the real thing from a distance. At  2.25 million pesos ($Aus.180,000) this was great value. Another son, who lived next door to this home, showed us through his own home. An animal lover, he had three dogs, (2 boxer pups and their mum), several big aviaries with very talkative parrots as well as other smaller birds and also a large fenced, grassed area with three deer, a very small, young deer and two bigger ones. The tiny deer’s mother had been shot and the baby brought in to this young man to look after. After seeing these three homes we were able to begin to make some comparisons.

Back in town, we caught a local bus out to the port town of Progreso, on the coast. This direct ride of 50 minutes costs just 25 pesos for the return trip per person ($2)! How good is that? It was very comfortable too with slightly laid back seats. Lunch in a cafe right on the edge of the beach proved just the ticket, Jim enjoying his chimichungas and me with my fish quesadillas. A beer or two (Coronas for $1) finished it off. They sure know how to produce great food in Mexico!  Had a great time watching the large numbers of brown pelicans just offshore, swooping into the sea to return with a prize fish. The local industry here is fishing and Progreso has some 900 fishing boats. Most fish caught in this area is exported to the US, Japan and Europe. Took a nice long walk up the shelly beach, File:Beach at Progreso, Yucatán.JPGwhich is safe and tranquil with no currents

or tides, due to the fact that Progreso sits on a limestone shelf that very gradually goes out to sea. Cruise ships visit Progreso at least three times a week and because of the limestone shelf the pier is about 6 kms long!

Even then, the water at the end of the pier is just 30 metres deep! Comfortable, cooling breezes blow in off the Gulf of Mexico and an occasional shower creates spectacular sunsets, we were told. One last cup of coffee in a small bar and we made our way back to the bus station. On our return to Merida,  a monsoon rain shower was upon us and we were quite wet by the time we reached our hotel.

Sat in the dining room using our computer to book our flights to Veracruz via the Orbitz website, one of the many we have used successfully. Done! Bedtime!

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